BrisVegas Baby

Another post already! At the request of SS and A here are more adventures and dresses.

New on the blog: Vogue 8998 and adventures #sewing #voguepatterns

A few weeks ago, my friend G and I decided to visit our friends H and K in Brisbane for a weekend and when I mentioned the plan to S she jumped right on board too. When we all lived in CBR we saw each other at least weekly, but the 5 of us haven’t been in the same place at the same time in over 2 years. The visit was just the excuse I needed to finish this little number. It’s another Vogue 8998, this time I used the bodice and waistband of the pattern with my drafted pleated skirt. I used the bodice of New Look 6723, which I have alter to within an inch of it’s life to adjust the fit to my liking. This meant shaving off the top of the shoulder to raise the waist and armhole, scooping out a bit of width just under the bust, narrowing the front and back necklines and shortening the bodice by 2cm. I do think that the waist is now a touch high so I might go back and lengthen my pattern pieces again. The skirt is also shorter than expected as the waistband is about 2 inches higher in this dress then it is as a skirt.

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This time I skipped the collar detail. I love the way the scoop at the back looks, I think it’s so chic and I also love the front neckline, which is scooped but still totally work appropriate… I’ve been dreaming of a work version in some pindot brown wool I picked up recently. I may bring in the edge of the neckline a little, just to be extra sure bra straps stay hidden where they belong.

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I got the fabric for this little number a while ago while visiting SS – it’s nothing special, just a stretch cotton sateen from Spotlight but I really like the print and colours; it combines all my signature colours – olives, pinks, purples and yellows. I wore it to brunch on Sunday and for the flight home. Originally I had planned on wearing it to dinner and drinks on Saturday but then this happened:

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Bernie Dexter Paris Dress in “Cherry Tree Lane” from That Shop. I have literally no idea who the people in the background are.

I have been searching for enough of the Michael Miller cherry tree landscape fabric to make a dress from for years so when I saw this dress I just decided to go with it. I really like it, but I must say that $200 for an unlined quilting cotton dress is not exactly a bargain! I also find it interesting, because I would say the dress itself reads as quite formal, but the fabric is casual. I have toyed with the idea of taking of the bodice and re-making it to be more like V8998, maybe in a matching blue fabric, which would be a lot more wearable for everyday. I do think the gathered bust detail is very pretty but I’m not sure how often I could wear it, and as is typical in RTW the waist sits about an inch too low. I bet I will never get around to it though – I HATE alterations.

The weekend was super fun – I caught up with my dad and aunt on Friday, then went back to the airport to meet G (it’s on my dad’s way home). G and I got the train into the city and met H at work before heading out to the river for drinks where we were joined by K and my old housemate B. Saturday G and I went to That Shop and the End of the Line Festival, before picking up H at the aiport and heading out to drinks, dinner and more drinks with the whole crew. Sunday we brunched before G and I had to fly home (S wasn’t leaving until late on Sunday). So that was my weekend!

Until next time!

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Lady Liberty Carline

OMG YOU GUYS I AM SO INTO THIS FABRIC I CAN’T EVEN.

OK, I just had to get that out of my system 🙂 I had actually been trying to hunt down some Liberty Carline for an embarrassingly long time when Roisin recommended a few eBay sellers that might have the goods. Then, not a week later I stumbled across Fabrics Galore and found some purple. Lastly, Liz put her Liberty stash up for sale. So I ended up going from no Carline, to having 8 meters of the stuff in three colours. Today we’re going to chat about the first, which is a poplin. I haven’t always been a big poplin fan, but the Liberty poplin may be my dream fabric – it’s a tiny bit weightier than the lawn, which gives it a little more body and means it isn’t transparent at all. I found it completely lovely to work with.

Today on the blog: a New Look/ Vogue mash up in liberty carline aka the fabric of my dreams #sewing//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

I actually finished this little number oh, 7 months ago, which should tell you something about how long my to-blog list is.

To me it was completely obvious what this lovely wanted to be – a princess seamed dress with as full a skirt as I could manage. I used the old faithful New Look 6723 bodice (which I FBA’d ages ago) and the gored circle skirt from Vogue 8998. I had considered using all of Vogue 8998, but I wasn’t 100% happy with the fit in the bodice last time I made it and had no time to play with it so I went with my tried n true.

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(I don’t know why both the lighting and my fringe are bad in this pic 😦 Also! Winter-style)

Through some wonder of dressmaking, the skirt and bodice lined up well lengthwise. The seams along the sides and the princess seams in the bodice and gores of the skirt don’t match at all but I think the print disguises a lot of the issues, so #YOLO. The skirt is truly lovely, if not designed for someone with the amount of hip/bum curve that I have. I like that unlike a traditional circle skirt it’s more fitted through the abdomen and hips before flaring out dramatically which I think is quite flattering. It’s also a bit of a fabric saver which is always nice. I do miss having pockets, but one can’t have everything I suppose.

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On the bodice: I had originally drafted an all-on-one facing because I love the look of them in RTW and thought that an all-in-one would not constantly flip out, which my neck facings ALWAYS do despite understitching and pressing. Unfortunately it all went horribly wrong and was SUPER TIGHT around the top of my bust and front of my shoulders. I suspect I didn’t take into account my FBA properly. In the end I ripped it out and went with bias binding around the neck and armholes, which I always quite like. I used my machine overcast stitch to finish the seams. I do still want to try an all-in-one facing because I love the clean look they give so I’m going to give it another crack next time.

My favourite thing about this dress is how all-seasons it is! it looks cute on it’s own for summer, and for winter I love it with a cardi, tights and the ankle boots I inherited from my mum.

A wool workdress

What’s up readers? I have been stitching up a storm lately but neglecting to take photos. I seriously have about 5 unblogged projects rattling around. In other news, I turned 28 last week (am officially old) and started a new job just over a month ago (which is so far both enjoyable and crazy busy). To celebrate, I decided to treat myself to some birthday goodies:

All my birthday presents to myself came at once! #libertyoflondon #mac #lipstickaddict #fabricaholic #nofilter

So onto the dress, it’s another New Look 6723, my fourth I think. What can I say, there’s something so lovely about a pattern that just works. This time I used the pattern’s skirt, but made it a bit fuller though the extremely scientific process of moving the centre front and centre back a little way inwards to add an extra 5 inches or so. I then did a pleat at the princess seams and then another to the side a little. I moved the waistline up a bit as this wool is very drapey and I think it stretched a little and sat too low. I included pockets for the storing of things, as always.

Tonight on the blog: this sweet wool number using New Look 6723 #sewing #sewcialists

The fashion fabric is a gorgeous wool I got from Mood last March, it presses like a dream and although it creases a little more than I would like it holds up to wear very well. The dress bodice is lined with white cotton batiste which I picked up at Spotlight forever ago (sadly this was the last of it – I must pick up dome more) and the skirt with white rayon lining from Fabric.com. I prefer using cotton to line the bodice as I find it comfier. Plus it’s easier to work with on princess seams and doesn’t slip around while cutting.

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There’s not much else to say really, it’s just a simple, classic dress that wears really well. I’m planning on making another in some beige wool as I get so much wear out of this one I thought having another would be just the trick.

PS isn’t my bunny brooch adorable?

Until next time!

A fancy dress for a fancy occassion

So a few weeks back one of my cousins, J, got married. I probably know her best of my cousins on that side of the family as she lived with my grandmother for a long time. I was super excited to be invited to her wedding and (of course!) made a new dress for the occasion.

#bpsewvember days 27+28 best make + hem: this silk dress I made for my cousins wedding. Underlined in silk organza with an enormous amount of catch stitching, not to mention the full lining. Then I did a hand rolled hem on the enormous skirt.

This is my third version of New Look 6723, this time with the skirt from the By Hand London Flora. I have to say I adore the skirt of flora. So big & twirly!

This dress was made of a lightweight sky blue crepe-back satin I got for $10/m of eBay, the bodice was underlined in blue silk organza and the whole dress had a lining in silver/grey silk/cotton. I used the machine to finish the lining and overcast its seams but French seamed the fashion fabric and hand stitched it’s rolled hem. I think this hem looks really pretty and delicate in fine fabrics.

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I hand stitched in my underlining using silk thread before assembling the bodice. I found it easier to use the organza as pattern pieces and roughly trim the silk before stitching them together and cutting it to the correct size.

Technique: underlining. This one is silk organza to add a little body to a soft and fragile crepe back silk satin. #bpsewvember @bimbleandpimble

I am pretty pleased with how this turned out – underlining with the organza was a great move, as it allowed me to catch stitch all the seams in the bodice down. I think this helped smooth out the princess seams, although I must admit they are still not perfect – I was too afraid to press the silk as much as I wanted to.

Catch stitching queen! #sewing

I adjusted my FBA a tiny bit more, smoothing out the curve and trimming my altered pattern piece so I could sew the seam at 10mm rather than 15mm.

#bpsewvember day 17: fit. The FBA! I only just started doing them, but things fit SO MUCH BETTER now. 100% worth the effort!

I also changed the back to be a “V” shape. I love the way this looks with a higher neckline. My facing did not go entirely to plan (you can see it poking out a little here), but I’m pretty happy with it nonetheless.

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All in all I’m pretty thrilled with it, I got a lot of complements and it was wonderful to dance in.

Until next time!

What do you mean no one needs 20 floral dresses?

Oh look, something new and different: a floral fit and flare dress! This time with a pretty quilting cotton from fabric.com.

Today on the blog: yet another floral dress. #sewing #sewcialists

This is actually the first version of New Look 6723, complete with original skirt and slightly dodgy FBA (I got better, I promise!).

So I sewed I a 12 in the front bodice and 12 in the neckline/shoulders graded to a 16 in the back of the bodice. I then did a 3″ FBA (I should have done 4 I think as it’s still a little tight) and took some of the extra ease that created in the waist back out. I then took a little out directly under the bust where it was a tiny bit loose. I am pretty happy with the way the bodice fits now. It took two muslins, but I used the second as lining, as is my usual practice.

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For the skirt, I cut the biggest size as it looked disappointingly non-full. For me, it still wasn’t full enough for the gathers to look good so I did two pleats on each side at the front and a box pleat in each side at the back instead. I quite like the way this looks and think it would be nice in a work dress. I popped in an invisible zip, which are my new favourite closures now I’ve mastered the invisible zipper foot!

Overall I really like this one. The neckline is super, super pretty and while I found the skirt underwhelming at first I am now pretty pleased with it. Sometimes it’s nice to be unafraid of wind. Next time I think I will put a little cotton tape on the neckline, as sometimes it sticks out a little from my body, particularly when I lean forward. I would also like to add pockets, mostly because I find myself trying to use them even when I don’t have them!

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Thanks to my friend T for taking photos again!

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Hello Halloween!

As a small child, I never “did” Halloween. My mum hated us Aussies importing American holiday traditions. These days, however, I’ll take any excuse to dress up!

Today on the blog, my super cute Halloween dress made using New Look 6723 #sewing link in profile :)

This little number is New Look 6723, with the skirt of McCall’s 6696, skirt front cut on the fold.

This is actually my second go at 6723, I made a version a few weeks back (which is next in line to be blogged!) with the sweetheart neckline. I decided to do my first “real” FBA and was super pleased with the results. For this version, I used the high, boat neckline and amended my FBA a little for a better fit. I used the 12 in the neck and armholes and did a FBA. Because I curve in quite a lot under my bust, I reshaped that area in this version, taking it to match my curves.

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I am completely thrilled with the finished product! It is the best fitting thing I have made so far and it’s amazing what a difference that makes.

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My fabric is a cute “scary cupcake” quilting cotton, I think by Michael Miller. My brother got it for me last Christmas (yes, it did take me almost 10 months to use it!).

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This isn’t the last time I’ll make this dress. I’m in the process of making a fancy silk version for my cousin’s wedding, and I also think it will be great for work. Hooray for learning new fitting techniques!